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HOW TO CHOOSE A BRA, GUIDELINES FOR BRA
FITTING AND CHECKLIST FOR CHOOSING A BRA
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When you walk into a lingerie
store or boutique and ask about buying a bra, are you asked
what color you like, or are the salespeople taking the time
to help you to select the correct size and style of bra?
There are health, comfort and appearance-related issues
involved with selecting the proper bra. If the salespeople
take the extra time to ask the right questions, you will be
happier with the bra you purchase.
Breasts are possibly a woman's
most distinctive feminine feature, adding to her beauty and
sex appeal. Despite this, many women do not properly look
after their breasts and wear bras which do not fit well,
offer little support, and displace the breast tissue,
pushing it under the arm or flattening it around the breast
wall.
You must think of buying a
good, well-fitting bra as an investment with both present
and future benefits, not only will it prevent your breasts
from drooping in the future, but you will also immediately
look slimmer and more in proportion. A bra that bulges and
doesn't fit properly will spoil the most expensive dress.
"To get the right results,
however, it is very important that you wear your bra
correctly. While this may seem silly to women who have been
putting on bras for years, there is indeed a proper way to
do it."
Signs that your
bra is not right for you include
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Red marks on your
shoulders caused by your bra straps.
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Breasts forced over the
top of the cup in a double bump.
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The center of your bra
does not touch the breastbone.
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Your breasts are drooping
or looking generally out of shape.
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Any or all of these signs
could indicate that you are wearing the wrong bra size.
that's not only uncomfortable, it can also over time,
distort the shape of your breasts and cause a variety of
health problems, from headaches to backaches and even
migraines.
The Correct
Size - Do you find that
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Your bra rises up at the
back, thus not supporting the weight of your bust.
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Your shoulders are being
pulled forward.
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Your bust is not properly
supported and falls forward, instead of being in its
central position.
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As you move, your bust
bounces up and down and the straps keep falling off
unless you tighten them, in which case they dig into
your flesh, causing red marks.
If you answered "yes" to any
of those questions, you are probably wearing a bra with too
large an underband and too small a cup, and you may well be
experiencing both shoulder and neck pains.
In addition, because your
breast is bigger than the cup, it pushes against the sides
of the bra. for an underwired style, this can be harmful, as
well as extremely uncomfortable. Remember, your bras should
always fit accurately. cups should be just right; not too
big, but deep enough to contain the whole of the breast.
The
Correct Style
Small Bust
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To make the most of a small
bust, try a balcony style bra, with or without padding. this
can give you an enhanced neckline, excellent uplift, and a
lovely, curvy shape. Half-cup bras also flatter a smaller
bust; padding at the sides and under the bust give maximum
lift. Avoid bras that have square-cut bust lines; they'll
flatten you even more.
Large Bust
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For
women with larger busts, wider shoulder and back straps give
firm support. Full cups contain the breast better and give a
better appearance. Underwired bras provide better support
under the bust. Smooth, plain bra styles, without too much
lace, help to make your bust appear smaller.
Just as you don't have one
pair of shoes to match all of your clothes, you will need at
least a couple of different bra styles for your clothes to
look good. Tailored suits and shirts look best with a bit of
uplift and firmer control, but when you're wearing jeans and
a T-shirt, you may just want a soft, seamless bra to shape
you and to go with clingy tops. Wear flesh-colored bras to
avoid showing through, and backless bras with a low-cut
party dress or sun top. Wear dark-colored bras under dark
tops; there's nothing worse than showing a glimpse of white
bra under a black top.
Also, if you're losing weight
or if your weight varies over the course of the month, a bra
with a little lycra or stretch is more accommodating and
won't crease under clothing. Remember, your breasts will
change with diet, pregnancy, exercise, age, and taking the
Pill. Women whose breasts inflate before their period should
have a special bra for these days, as their size can go up
premenstrually. During pregnancy, hormonal changes can make
a woman rise one full size in a week. Avoid underwire during
pregnancy, as breast may become to fragile and sensitive.
Sports Bras
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Research in Great Britain has
found that of the total number of women who exercise, 77
percent don't' wear a sports bra, and of this figure, 19
percent don't wear a bra at all. the remainder wear a
regular bra or crop top. This is bad news, considering that
any excessive breast movement puts a huge strain on the
ligaments that hold the breasts in place, causing them to
stretch, and resulting in long-term sagging.
To stay in shape, a
well-designed sports bra is as essential as a good pair of
trainers; an everyday bra doesn't give enough support during
exercise. Sports bras are specially designed to allow
complete freedom of movement while holding you firmly in
place, and are made from specialized fabrics that channel
moisture away from the skin to the outside of the fabric.
They come in different shapes and levels of activity, and
include seamless cups for a natural outline, racer backs,
and cotton-rich materials that allow the skin to breathe.
Health Matters

Wearing the wrong size bra or
a badly fitting bra can result in back problems, headaches,
neck strain, rashes, and pulled ligaments. This happens when
the bust is not well supported by the bra, because your
breasts may begin to droop and fall to the bottom of the
cup. The breast tissue will role off the chest wall and
under the arm, thus pulling on the neck. This can result in
headaches, since the muscles being pulled in the shoulders
go all the way to the head. Reduced blood flow to the head
can cause headaches and backaches, as the extra weight of
the bust places more pressure on the back.
These problems can be remedied
by wearing the right bra. In this case, an underwire bra
will take the strain and open up the chest so that you can
breathe properly. It allows the proper blood flow to
rebuild.
Some Facts
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Breast sizes are growing. The average size has gone from
a 34B to a 36C over the past 10 years.
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Twenty years ago a DD cup was unusual; now G cups are
not uncommon. Changing diet and the Pill are the
culprits.
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Bra-wearers are getting younger. Twenty years ago, 12
and 13 year old bought teen bras, now eight and nine
year olds are taking the plunge.
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Today, the biggest selling color is white, while ivory
and cream are a close second. In 1971, skin tones were
bestsellers, and were second favorite until about five
years ago. Tea rose was the favorite from the 1920s
through the 1950s.
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Higher numbers of separations, divorces, and remarriages
have boosted the demand for attractive lingerie.

To make
sure you have the right size, check that:
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The
back of your bra does not ride up, otherwise the
underband may be too big, and you could need a smaller
size.
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Your
bra straps are not falling down or digging into your
shoulders. If they are, you may need to adjust them or
use wider straps or use shoulder savers.
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Your
flesh does not squeeze over the top of your bra. If it
does but feels fine everywhere else, the cup size is too
small.
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Your
finger can pass under the band in front. Your bra should
be comfortable but not tight, otherwise you need a
larger band size or you must fasten your bra at the next
looser hook.
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The
middle of your bra lies as flat as possible against your
breastbone for a comfortable fit.
To get the
right results, it is very important that you wear your bra
correctly. While this may seem silly to women who have been
putting on bras for years, there is indeed a proper way to
do it. We recommend that you follow the following steps when
putting on your bra.
Put your
hands through the straps so that the straps are over your
shoulders; bend forward from the waist and adjust your
breast position so that your breasts are completely within
the cup with the nipples being at the fullest point within
the cup; make sure the hooks are fastened at the middle
position; stand up and adjust the straps so that your
breasts are at the right level; and make sure that the bra
does not rise at the back and is comfortable without being
too tight.
Before You
Begin
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Try to
get someone to take the measurements for you - your
posture will be more relaxed and natural. The
measurements should be more accurate.
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Stand
up straight and breathe normally
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Don't
measure over the top of clothing
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Wear
the bra you feel most comfortable in
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Use a
cloth tape measure if possible. Note: Older flexible
tape measures can sometimes stretch and distort over
time.
Traditional
Measurement Method

1. Determining
your Bra/Band size
(ribcage
circumference measurement)
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Measure
around the chest directly under the breast at a constant
height with the cloth measuring tape. Add 5 inches to
that measurement. This dimension is your bra/band size
(If the bra size works out to an ODD number go up one
inch to the next EVEN number.) This should equal the
circumference around the chest, directly above the
breasts/under the arms.
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Now
measure around the chest at the height of the fullest
part of the breast. The measuring tape should be held
horizontal, flat on your back, and your arms should be
down. Make a note of that measurement (only used for
comparison) and compare it to the Bra Size from step 1.
2. Determining
your Cup size
(projection
of breasts from chest wall)

|
Chart to Determine Bra Cup Size |
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Difference
|
Cup Size |
Example |
|
Half inch |
AA
cup |
Step 1:
Underbust measurement is 37". Add 5 inches. Bra Size
is 42. |
|
One inch |
A cup |
|
Two inches |
B
cup |
Step 2: Full
bust measurement is 45".
|
|
Three inches |
C cup |
|
Four inches |
D cup |
Step 3: 45 - 42
= 3" difference. Cup size is C. |
|
Five inches
|
DD or E cup |
|
Six inches
|
F cup |
Result: Buy a 42C bra. |
|
Seven inches |
G cup
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The usual bra measuring
system may not work
Some people have written to me
suggesting that the previous measurement scheme does not
work at ALL for them. Why? The previous measurement guide is
an approximation. Each person is unique, and all busts
differ in volume, shape and spacing, just as each person's
unique body size, height, and weight can affect a bra's fit;
a tape measure and simple formula may not always tell the
whole story. Plus, even if the measurements ARE accurate,
there are no real "standards" for bra sizing, so differences
between manufacturers is common.
An alternate bra measuring
scheme
(from Tanya Brown at Tanya
Brown's Breast Prosthesis Emporium)
Determining
your Bra/Band Size: (ribcage circumference measurement)
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Measure around the chest directly under the breast.
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Measure around the chest, directly above the
breasts/under the arms.
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If the
difference between the two measurements is two inches or
less, use the Step 1 measurement. If the difference is
over two inches, you may want to try one bra/band size
larger for comfort. This will be your bra/band size.
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If the
under-breast measurement is an odd number, add one to
reach the next even numbered bra band size.
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Now
measure around the chest at the height of the fullest
part of the breast. The measuring tape should be held
horizontal, and your arms should be down. Make a note of
that measurement (only used for comparison).
Notes
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The previous measurement
instructions are most applicable if you are taking bra
measurement with an existing set of breasts.
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If you have only one
breast due possibly to surgery, or have an uneven breast
cup sizes, you should probably equalize the cups (with
some form of padding) to the existing or largest breast
when measuring to maintain measurement symmetry.
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If you do not have breasts
due to whatever the reason, you will take the bra band
measurements listed above, but you can pretty much be
whatever cup size you wish, depending on what your plans
are. Remember that choosing a cup size proportional to
your body frame will look the most "natural."
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Suggestions on choosing a
cup size (from Tanya Brown at Tanya Brown's Breast
Prosthesis Emporium):
Bra band sizes
32-28
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"Slender" build: A cup
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"Average" build: B cup
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"Heavier" build: C cup
Bra band sizes
40-42
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"Average" build: B cup
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"Heavier" build: C-D cup
Bra band sizes
44-46
If you are in between sizes or
you are having difficulty finding a good fit, when you go up
a cup size, you should go down a band size. If you go down a
cup size, you should go up a band size (ex: if you have a
36C and it is not fitting quite properly, you would probably
want to try a 38B or a 34D next.)
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When sizes are DD and
above, great care must be taken to be properly fitted.
Some bra manufacturers make their Bra Size slightly
large. (e.g. a bra marked 38 will probably fit a 40
woman.)
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For sizes above D, cup
sizing is not well defined. It can keep increasing by an
inch for each successive letter, or it can repeat
letters for new cup sizes above D. So, a DD cup is the
same as an E cup. A DDD=EE=F cup, a DDDD=EEE=FF=G cup
and so on.
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Long line and 3/4 bras
should only be considered if their length is LESS than
the distance from the under-bust to the natural waist
line.
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If either of the bra sizes
given here is very different than what you are currently
wearing, go with your current size.
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When ordering a mail order
garment where a proper fit is important, make sure that
the return policy of the company is well understood.
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If you are taking these
measurements without wearing a breast form on for only a
single prosthesis, determining the bra cup size can be
more difficult. Some experimentation may be necessary.
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If you are taking these
measurements for two prostheses, you can simply take the
bra size measurement (Step 1) and then choose the cup
size that is right for you.
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These are guidelines only.
Proper sizing may vary for different body sizes,
heights, and weights.
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When sizes are DD and
above, great care must be taken to be properly fitted.
Some bra manufacturers make their Bra Size slightly
large. (e.g. a bra marked 38 will probably fit a 40
woman.)
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Someone sent me mail
asking about how to properly measure for a bra when the
breasts have sagged significantly due to gravity. The
truth is, I'm not sure because you probably then need to
be wearing a bra to get a proper measurement. Catch-22.
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I would suggest that
seeing a bra fitter in this case would probably be best.
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